![]() Chef Julia Child recommends 73 layers for regular pâte feuilletée and 729 (i.e. The number of layers in puff pastry is calculated with the formula: The production of puff pastry dough can be time-consuming, because it must be kept at a temperature of approximately 16 ☌ (60 ☏) to keep shortening from becoming runny, and must rest in between folds to allow gluten strands time to link up and thus retain layering. In his novel El Buscón (published in 1627 but written in 1604), the Spanish writer Francisco de Quevedo caustically suggests that the puff pastry pies sold at the inn of some Simón de Paredes in Madrid were being adulterated with human flesh. In this book, puff pastry is abundantly used, particularly to make savoury game pies. Francisco Martínez Motiño, head chef to Philip II of Spain (1527–1598), also gave several recipes of puff pastry in his Arte de cocina, pastelería, bizcochería y conservería published in 1611. Maceras, the head cook in one of the colleges of the University of Salamanca, already distinguished between filled puff pastry recipes and puff pastry tarts, and even mentions leavened preparations. Puff pastry also has a long history in Spain, perhaps through Arab or Moorish influences: the first known recipe of puff pastry using butter or lard and following the Arab technique of making each layer separately, appears in the Spanish recipe book Libro del arte de cozina ( Book on the art of cooking) written by Domingo Hernández de Maceras and published in 1607. The modern French puff pastry was then developed and improved by the chef M. The story goes that Lorrain was making a type of very buttery bread for his sick father, and the process of rolling the butter into the bread dough created a croissant-like finished product. But the technique is considered the idea of the famous painter Claude Gellée when he was an apprentice baker in 1612. ![]() ![]() However, the first recipe using the technique of tourage (the action of putting a piece of butter inside the dough and folding several time the dough) was published in 1651 by François Pierre La Varenne in Le cuisinier français. The oldest known recipe for puff pastry in France was written in a charter by bishop Robert of Amiens in 1311. They create separated thin sheets of dough spread with olive oil and use them in different kind of pastries like baklava. While modern puff pastry was developed in France and Spain, Arabs and Greeks have used a different kind of puff pastry for many centuries, similar to Greek phyllo. ![]()
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